🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.